Wednesday, October 10, 2007

 

Capt'n's Log

I figured, what better way to celebrate the two-year anniversary of Team Shredder than to glide across the glassy, peeling, big waves at Cardiff Reef?
It was mid-morning, perfect Santa Anna-like conditions, and the crowd was VERY small and nice. The water was clear, and I could see all the way down to the bottom. Lots of cute little fish down there, looking like shiny metal trinkets when the sun caught them just right. All would be calmer and stiller than usual, with the high pressure pressing down on the surface of the water to smooth it out. Then a set would roll in, rising up into beautiful shape rather quickly and dramatically. I fucking love reef.
The only flaw in this otherwise perfect morning was me wishing that the waves would stay up longer sometimes and peel a little further. Because I don't know how to be grateful. But the tide had already hit bottom and was slowly coming back up, and I think the rule of thumb with these reefs is that they prefer when it is coming in and not going out. Will I ever really know. Plus more swell was due in the next day, and we were starting to get little hints of it. Perhaps these two elements were just what we needed, because we started to get bigger sets that were further outside, and thus peeling longer! Madre Mer! The magic of fall is upon us.

Comments:
The image is from one of Margaret Kilgallen's installations in California.
 
What up Caps? It's a rainy, dreary day here so I came to your blog for a little sunshine. You never let me down.
 
Aw peeds, datsa nice. I'm sorry about your rainy day bluze. Things here in Cali are good lately. Tell me more about NY.
 
Nothin much to tell. Got a show up in Hudson again, so I'll be goin' up there soon. Been working too much this week because Uggs is away...and I am craving pumpkin pie. How's that for an update?
 
Hot hot hot news, peeds. First of all, congratulations on your upcoming show in Hudson. Beware that I will need to hear all about it from you, so chop chop. Secondly, wow, I hadn't thought about Uggs in a long time. She is still fucking there? That's a real blow of the dick.
I must hit the road in an hour or so for San Diego...but it's cool because that's where all the glorious reef is, anyway.
 
Hope you had a good ride Capt'n. I am a-missin you.
 
I DID have many good rides, peeds, thanks. I miss u too. I gotta get my butt back there soon.
 
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7 Comments:

The image is from one of Margaret Kilgallen's installations in California.

By Blogger The Capt'n, at 10:55 AM  

What up Caps? It's a rainy, dreary day here so I came to your blog for a little sunshine. You never let me down.

By Anonymous Anonymous, at 1:45 PM  

Aw peeds, datsa nice. I'm sorry about your rainy day bluze. Things here in Cali are good lately. Tell me more about NY.

By Blogger The Capt'n, at 6:54 PM  

Nothin much to tell. Got a show up in Hudson again, so I'll be goin' up there soon. Been working too much this week because Uggs is away...and I am craving pumpkin pie. How's that for an update?

By Anonymous Anonymous, at 5:57 AM  

Hot hot hot news, peeds. First of all, congratulations on your upcoming show in Hudson. Beware that I will need to hear all about it from you, so chop chop. Secondly, wow, I hadn't thought about Uggs in a long time. She is still fucking there? That's a real blow of the dick.
I must hit the road in an hour or so for San Diego...but it's cool because that's where all the glorious reef is, anyway.

By Blogger The Capt'n, at 9:28 AM  

Hope you had a good ride Capt'n. I am a-missin you.

By Anonymous Anonymous, at 6:33 PM  

I DID have many good rides, peeds, thanks. I miss u too. I gotta get my butt back there soon.

By Blogger The Capt'n, at 7:53 PM  

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