Tuesday, May 08, 2007
San Onofre = Love, Plus Another First For Team Shredder: SWITCHFOOT!!
How else can I say it? San Onofre is a beautiful place and I love it.
It's kind of huge and offers many choices.
On a good day, under the right conditions, you will get so many long & sweet rides that you will even forget for a minute that you did something very cool on one of your first waves of the day there, and that is a thing called:
SWITCHFOOT!
Plus, there is nobody there but ultra sweet, mellow, old school people, like Chris and Ty here, who are so nice that you again get distracted from the fact that you did a switchfoot,* even though you are still technically a spastic kook.
*Switchfoot, for non-OCD non-surfers, is a surfer who can ride comfortably with either foot forward. It is also just the act of switching your feet, mid-ride. It usually gets done when you are going back side, with your back to the wave, and you want to face the wave instead. For example, if you are goofyfoot, like me, which is right foot forward, and you were going right on a wave yesterday at San Onofre, and it is easy breaking enough to try, you might suddenly bring your left foot to the front and continue along without wiping out like you've been doing it for a while now. Fuck yes. Eye of the tiger.
Here is an example of the great Linda Benson doing a switchfoot. It's in the early film footage, I think on the third wave, when she's wearing the white shirt.
Hey Capt'n--a "switchfoot" sounds crazy. I would be scared to switch feet mid-ride.
: 12:22 PM YOU ARE BECOMING A ZEN MASTER RIGHT IN FRONT OF NON OF US
A SWITCHFOOT!
I don't want to brag but right now I'm balancing the computer on my stomach and eating watermelon
I LOVE when you include surf diagrams by the way with those surf words
I was just chuckling to myself at the thought of you switching I mean in the other way the last time you made out with that nice dude in the bathroom in the 90's he was cute and looked kinda just like you
I tried to post on your last one but no dice
: 3:29 PM Links to this post:
7 Comments:
I forgot to say, the bottom photo credit is Bruce Weber, "Chris and TY, San Onofre Beach, California" 1998.
By 
The Capt'n, at
5:30 PM
Hmmm nice dunkity-dunk Ty has.
Hey Capt'n--a "switchfoot" sounds crazy. I would be scared to switch feet mid-ride.
By , at
12:22 PM
No dude, it's fun! At least on the baby wave. It's like, imagine doing the robot dance, and then all of a sudden you decide to mix things up and go sideways. Or it's like in badminton when you hit the birdie behind your back, or when you hold the karaoke mike or tippy, full to the rim martini glass in your non-dominant hand. Scary at first but ultimately it gives you a rush.
By The Capt'n, at
1:30 PM
scary/fun non-dominant rush flipping. That's hot!
By , at
1:43 PM
You would know, acn.
By The Capt'n, at
3:24 PM
CAPTN
YOU ARE BECOMING A ZEN MASTER RIGHT IN FRONT OF NON OF US
A SWITCHFOOT!
I don't want to brag but right now I'm balancing the computer on my stomach and eating watermelon
I LOVE when you include surf diagrams by the way with those surf words
I was just chuckling to myself at the thought of you switching I mean in the other way the last time you made out with that nice dude in the bathroom in the 90's he was cute and looked kinda just like you
I tried to post on your last one but no dice
By , at
3:29 PM
dagger, you're living the dream
<< Home
