Tuesday, May 29, 2007
Another great day at San Onofre followed by a mediocre one at Venice
Beautiful San O, a longboarder's paradise. Sunday was kind of great, big & clean and happening, until the tide got too high. But even so, it was all the way excellent. These nice vintage photos do nothing to reveal the grandeur that was. I just like the cars.
San Onofre has a scary nuclear power plant, right there about 2 inches away from the state beach. Well actually it's in the state beach. Yeah that's how they like to roll here in SoCal.
But you do what you have to do and imagine what you have to imagine in order to deal with the fact that you may be either slowly getting cancer, or might just happen to be in a very bad spot if the fucking thing ever goes haywire. Which is totally worth it because nuclear power is so cheap!
So I noticed a surfer in the water who was exceptionally talented, WAY beyond anything I've ever seen in person. It was really fun to watch him do his crazy beautiful turns and whatnot on his ginormous stripey board. Not just any old clown can do this, my friends. A gifted longboarder is a wonder to behold. It almost doesn't look real, what they do.
Anyway, turns out this gifted guy is also really nice. Not arrogant or mean, not emanating bad Darth Vader vibes like lots of the choads out there. I guess he saw me catch a big old wave, but with a really wobbly start. I never learned to pop up correctly, yet ironically my other skills have improved beyond that one thing. But that one thing is crucial. I can make overhead waves regularly now, even with late takeoffs if the wave is not too pitchy, but that fucking pop up is holding me back. Which homey totally noticed, because he then offered some excellent advice to remedy my situation. Of particular note was the fact that he found a way to do it that was utterly respectful & thoughtful, without a trace of condescension. I was like, whoa, brother from another planet, I am happy to receive your teachings. Plus you look familiar, why is that?The answer to that question is because it was 3 time US Longboarding Champion Josh Baxter! Correct!
If you don't want to be a stubborn, DIY chump like me who runs before they can walk, go to Josh's surf school. I can tell he's a great teacher.
: 12:18 PM : 10:32 PM What'd he say about the pop up, anyway? Must know.
Must see you soon.
: 10:38 PM Trying to put together an east coast visit this summer, which will prominently feature at least one surf day at the Rockaways with gree c, gandi and her new board, and you. There's no way you're getting out of it so heads up.
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6 Comments:
Isn't it great when the choads are nice mens? Sounds like Capt'n had one of those good days on the planet. Sweet, yo.
By , at
12:18 PM
Yeah, thanks Gay. It was an all-around excellent day. Dolphins still jumping out of the water, hanging out like 3 feet away...seems right up your gay alley, if you excuse the expression.
By 
The Capt'n, at
2:41 PM
Before I even read this entry, let me say that I finally saw my swimming lesson on the blog, because it's hard to press PLAY from the astral plane. Thanks, Dick Blue. It was really, really, really fun. Because I don't have lungs. You were laughing AT me, but I was laughing at life.
By , at
10:32 PM
cap'n do I need to do something special to log on as seamonkee69?
By , at
10:35 PM
babe, I'm so stoked about this Josh Baxter thing. I'm DYING to see you surf, you sand-baggin' son of a bitch! What a beautiful day!
What'd he say about the pop up, anyway? Must know.
Must see you soon.
By , at
10:38 PM
Babe, all you gotta do is remember your password, which I can't help you with, lovey. Or set up a new one. Yeah, you'll probably have to do that, come to think of it, since the blogger made me switch to the new system and redo my password, too.
Trying to put together an east coast visit this summer, which will prominently feature at least one surf day at the Rockaways with gree c, gandi and her new board, and you. There's no way you're getting out of it so heads up.
By The Capt'n, at
11:01 AM
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