Sunday, February 04, 2007
Guess what? GUESS WHAT?!?
Reuters-The Capt'n, captain of wild card pro surf team of teams Team Shredder, scored a first for the Team and a personal best thus far, that being getting NOT ONE BUT TWO CHEATER FIVES!!! In one day!!
"I really hate to brag, but it was pretty sweet." The Capt'n said during a recent interview.
"Once I did it the first time, I realized that it really isn't that big a deal. The nose is like Woman. She might let you if the wave is right."
Conditions were favorable at Tourmaline, the home-away-from-home break of Team Shredder. That, combined with a stubborn determination and willingness to look like a fool made up the magic of the Capt'n's big day. Remaining humble throughout it all, though, The Capt'n has again found a way to keep things in perspective:
"Of course, I didn't do the elegant cross-stepping that makes longboarding a thing of beauty. My style is like Woman. But, a very ugly Woman. Anyhow I couldn't let my surf esteem stay in the pits any longer, so I told myself to just go, and I shuffled off to Buffalo."
"Two cheater fives makes a ten. It's like you hung ten." -Dick Blew
Figure 1(A) Margaret Kilgallen, installation detail
Figure 1(B) Rell Sunn getting a mad elegant cheater five
Is it the ultimate in ingratitude to be complaining about surfing at Malibu? To have the time & opportunity & freedom & physical ability & a running vehicle & enough food & water to get me to one of the best spots of it's kind, and yet still bitch it up?
Cheering from the shore,
ACN
: 5:10 PM What's a cheater five?
: 6:20 PM Tourmaline is right by the PB point & cove, north of the pier, on the border of PB and Bird Rock/La Jolla. A cheater five is a wonderous thing. Hopefully soon I'll be able to get one with style. At Malibu, where it's warmer and nicer than in NY.
So its a cheater because her foot isn't right on the nose I guess.
I rarely get long enough rides to spend much time on the nose let alone hanging my digits. Didn't intend to complain myself back there. I hope it gets into the 30's this weekend....
: 4:06 PM Actually it's a cheater because she's kind of reaching forward with one foot, though technically this isn't really a classic example because it often looks more like a stretch. One stretches and reaches, thus cheating to get five. She's pretty upright and not reaching that far. And no, I guess her toes aren't really hanging off the tip, are they? Well, actually, it looks like the side of the tip, which qualifies in my book. She needs to be on the inside rail here. Mine didn't quite hang over the edge, I have to admit.
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10 Comments:
HipHip Hurray for the Capt'n!
Thanks Margaret.
By 
The Capt'n, at
2:48 PM
Then yesterday I went to Malibu, you know, on SuperChoad Sunday, and I ended up having a sort of aggravating, sort of ok time. 2 1/2 hours of driving there and back in traffic for small, ultimately unsatisfying & awkward rights that broke over a shallow cobblestone bottom. Hmm. Worth it? I blame myself and my lack of skills in a way. I find small waves and shallow water to be really difficult. I'm much more comfortable way outside near the point or in the cove, on those big, exciting yet forgiving rollers. There's so much room out there and so many chances to do different things. Like go left, for example.
Is it the ultimate in ingratitude to be complaining about surfing at Malibu? To have the time & opportunity & freedom & physical ability & a running vehicle & enough food & water to get me to one of the best spots of it's kind, and yet still bitch it up?
By The Capt'n, at
3:30 PM
Where is Tourmaline? Sounds fagulous. Cheater five sounds super fancy and dangerous.
Cheering from the shore,
ACN
By , at
5:10 PM
Yes on the ingratitude thing. My last day in the water here in NY; air temp 34 water temp pushing 40.
What's a cheater five?
By , at
6:20 PM
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By The Capt'n, at
6:36 PM
ACN, it's not as fagulous as, say, Black's Beach, where Beach Bitch has been known to troll, as made infamous in the song, "Beach Bitch."
Tourmaline is right by the PB point & cove, north of the pier, on the border of PB and Bird Rock/La Jolla. A cheater five is a wonderous thing. Hopefully soon I'll be able to get one with style. At Malibu, where it's warmer and nicer than in NY.
By The Capt'n, at
6:43 PM
You're right, Damian. I need to get over it. What the hell's my problem? Damian, look at the picture of Rell Sunn getting a mad elegant cheater five. That's what's known as a cheater five. Are you a potato chip rider?
By The Capt'n, at
6:50 PM
No taters for me! 9' 1x2 mostly ridden as a single. Ok. and the occasional 7' thruster on those big or choppy days.
So its a cheater because her foot isn't right on the nose I guess.
I rarely get long enough rides to spend much time on the nose let alone hanging my digits. Didn't intend to complain myself back there. I hope it gets into the 30's this weekend....
By , at
4:06 PM
Damian, at under 30 degrees you got plenty to complain about. That ice water must really hurt your face, yikes.
Actually it's a cheater because she's kind of reaching forward with one foot, though technically this isn't really a classic example because it often looks more like a stretch. One stretches and reaches, thus cheating to get five. She's pretty upright and not reaching that far. And no, I guess her toes aren't really hanging off the tip, are they? Well, actually, it looks like the side of the tip, which qualifies in my book. She needs to be on the inside rail here. Mine didn't quite hang over the edge, I have to admit.
By The Capt'n, at
12:10 PM
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