Tuesday, July 04, 2006

 

Capt'n's Log

Subject: A long day's journey into the waves


Object: Seeing through the eye of the tiger

Oh my god, I finally got out there today. Van brakes went out, so I had to search around all morning for the strap-on roof rack for the car. No finding. Anger feelings. Then drive clear across town to friend's house who has convertible, switch cars. Then go back home to van to get board and stuff. Then drive out to Tourmaline, but run out of gas on the way (all dashboard things broken, no way of knowing, except for repeated intuitional messages that I kept ignoring. (*note to self: why do you still do that?)
Roll the car into parking spot. More anger feelings. By now the mysterious, poetic, soft grey stillness of morning has burned off. The sun mocks me. A parade of choads and choadettes passes me by, carrying their coolers toward the beach. Sweating, cursing, trying to stay calm, I discover a small gas can in the back. With gas in it! Like a cup. But it is enough to start the little old VW Rabbit and get me to the gas station. Gratitude kicks in. I realize I'm shallow, in that when things go my way, I have happy feelings. Whatever, though. Miraculously, I find a spot in the parking lot really quickly. There are thousands of choads on the beach today, literally, yet this happened. More gratitude, more happy. Then the unthinkable happens.....there are not that many people in the water. How could this be, on a sunny 4th of July in San Diego, when the ocean is warm like bath water? Because they all seem to be flopped out on the beach, drunk. Tossing horse shoes. It's their day off. I can't blame them. I can only thank them for staying out of my way, thus enabling me to catch about 10 billion nice waves without having to fight for them or get cut off trying.
The only sad thing was that as I was sitting there, spacing out on my board between sets, I heard a voice in the distance calling what I thought was my name. I thought for a second that it sounded like Sea Monkey.
This Team ain't no Team without you, Sea Monkey.

Comments:
Capt'n, you sweet poet of the waves, I LOVE YOU. I am so happy for you and your day on the high seas. I am suddenly out of my Philthy stupor--thanks to your brilliance. I may have to do a new post, since I am not in the partying mood this eve. My neighborhood is flooded with the choads of which you speak--strolling in hoards toward the bkl'n promenade to catch a glimpse of the shooting fire in the sky.
 
peeeeeeeds! I love you too! I'm so glad you made it outta that sad, Gothic, beautiful Philthy.
Can you "accidentally" drop garbage out of your window on to the heads of the choads? Just asking, not suggesting.
 
Yes, great idea Capt'n. I just dropped a piping hot pot of chili on 'em.
Hey Capt'n, we should all go to Philthy together sometime.
 
Boy am I seeing fireworks now.
 
Capt'n another beautiful post...

Can you post a pic of you surfing?
 
Sounds like an amazing day, sweet capt'n of the surf. I like Peeds' idea of going to Philthy. Tastykakes can be our salvation. Twinkies. And what not.

PLEASE post a picture of you surfing. Please?
 
Hi lovies. Tastycakes and Philthy and togetherness. I'm in.
No pics of me surfing exist yet....but...
 
OH, I got a bad sunburn today, ouch! I have no business being out there for 3 hours in the middle of the day. I'm just way too pale. Even with 2 layers of waterproof 50 sunscreen. It either has to be dawn patrol or evening glass for me.
Now I gotta go ahead and look like a leatherfaced hag in about 2 seconds.
 
Captn
I forget about the beauty until I read the log
obviously you are an inspiration to many of us and...
was I channelling you over here on the east coast? I had the two best rides in a long time monday and tuesday but you know me without the board one ride was so long I ran out of breath the Atlantic she was not bath water however I saw a seal in the water or a giant old brown shoe not sure
I feel like I was there pushing the car with you
I can't wait for the Captn's class in sept
I had a thought about our paintings in New Mexico and Turkey call me 50 times
 
Gree C. Hair: Bodysurfer Extrordinaire

in theaters this September
on DVD this October

"...she takes it all the way to the parking lot..."

-Long Island Times
 
Capt'n, this post just keeps on giving.
 
capt'n's courageous! thank you for this ride, it sucked me in and burned itself into me pineal gland. Your unwavering commitment, dogged pursuit, and ultimate triumph... well it is all so inspiring; makes the dumb subway ride to the shack seem a bit less daunting. viva team shredder!
 
Dagger, I don't really have nothing to say except that I love you.
 
peeds, sloth, and zoe-
thanks, you guys!
 
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15 Comments:

Capt'n, you sweet poet of the waves, I LOVE YOU. I am so happy for you and your day on the high seas. I am suddenly out of my Philthy stupor--thanks to your brilliance. I may have to do a new post, since I am not in the partying mood this eve. My neighborhood is flooded with the choads of which you speak--strolling in hoards toward the bkl'n promenade to catch a glimpse of the shooting fire in the sky.

By Anonymous Anonymous, at 5:38 PM  

peeeeeeeds! I love you too! I'm so glad you made it outta that sad, Gothic, beautiful Philthy.
Can you "accidentally" drop garbage out of your window on to the heads of the choads? Just asking, not suggesting.

By Blogger The Capt'n, at 5:48 PM  

Yes, great idea Capt'n. I just dropped a piping hot pot of chili on 'em.
Hey Capt'n, we should all go to Philthy together sometime.

By Anonymous Anonymous, at 6:02 PM  

Boy am I seeing fireworks now.

By Blogger PD, at 6:13 PM  

Capt'n another beautiful post...

Can you post a pic of you surfing?

By Blogger Corny, at 7:59 PM  

Sounds like an amazing day, sweet capt'n of the surf. I like Peeds' idea of going to Philthy. Tastykakes can be our salvation. Twinkies. And what not.

PLEASE post a picture of you surfing. Please?

By Anonymous Anonymous, at 8:05 PM  

Hi lovies. Tastycakes and Philthy and togetherness. I'm in.
No pics of me surfing exist yet....but...

By Blogger The Capt'n, at 11:19 PM  

OH, I got a bad sunburn today, ouch! I have no business being out there for 3 hours in the middle of the day. I'm just way too pale. Even with 2 layers of waterproof 50 sunscreen. It either has to be dawn patrol or evening glass for me.
Now I gotta go ahead and look like a leatherfaced hag in about 2 seconds.

By Blogger The Capt'n, at 11:26 PM  

Captn
I forget about the beauty until I read the log
obviously you are an inspiration to many of us and...
was I channelling you over here on the east coast? I had the two best rides in a long time monday and tuesday but you know me without the board one ride was so long I ran out of breath the Atlantic she was not bath water however I saw a seal in the water or a giant old brown shoe not sure
I feel like I was there pushing the car with you
I can't wait for the Captn's class in sept
I had a thought about our paintings in New Mexico and Turkey call me 50 times

By Anonymous Anonymous, at 6:26 PM  

Gree C. Hair: Bodysurfer Extrordinaire

in theaters this September
on DVD this October

"...she takes it all the way to the parking lot..."

-Long Island Times

By Blogger The Capt'n, at 7:10 PM  

Capt'n, this post just keeps on giving.

By Anonymous Anonymous, at 1:38 PM  

capt'n's courageous! thank you for this ride, it sucked me in and burned itself into me pineal gland. Your unwavering commitment, dogged pursuit, and ultimate triumph... well it is all so inspiring; makes the dumb subway ride to the shack seem a bit less daunting. viva team shredder!

By Blogger sloth, at 7:21 PM  

Dagger, I don't really have nothing to say except that I love you.

By Blogger ZS, at 7:36 PM  

peeds, sloth, and zoe-
thanks, you guys!

By Blogger The Capt'n, at 7:53 PM  

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By Anonymous Anonymous, at 8:19 PM  

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