Saturday, June 17, 2006
Q: How does the Self get over the Self?
A: The Self goes to the point and allows itself to be bitch-slapped by several big waves. Then the Self catches two really KILLER waves and has two not only sweet but also very MAD rides. The left (frontside) was very long and exciting, passing through several stages of development. It started out kind of medium, then flattened a bit & threatened to fade out into nothing, so the Self made its way towards the nose to gain speed. By the way, the Self is getting closer to the nose all the time and hopes to get a cheater five sometime soon. Suddenly the dud wave began to lift up & reform, revealing a steeper little region coming up, so the Self inched a little more forward and pushed it's board over the little "cliff" and down the slide, made it, & scooched back. Fuck yes is what I say. Just in time for the wall to lift up more and even threaten to barrel. The Self crouched down in anticipation of said barrel, which never quite happened, but the wall of green nevertheless allowed for a long, rocket-like trajectory into a happier mood.
The other mad ride was a biggish, steepish right, which is backside for a goofyfoot Self. Meaning right foot in front, wave peeling to the right, Self travelling right, so Self must ride with back to wave, not so easy when Self is kooky spaz. Self managed to do it pretty well, Self is getting better. Said wave was actually kind of majestic for a few seconds, then began to section and crumble to the right, but the Self, being ever resourceful, turned her head to the left, noticed a nice, sweeping opportunity, and somehow managed to turn winnebago-like heavy longboard to the left and finish out the ride frontside.
it's funny you should mention that because I took a moment on that last wave to remember the Norf*ckineasters.. And you, in particular, come to mind any time I do something kooky and spastic. But only in the best of ways, mind you.
I am such a whisky wimp, myself.
I am so sorry, btw, about your recent disappointment. They shoulda let you in, that's fuckin bullshit, man. And what's with the 90 degrees in June? Somethin aint right here.
Now I feel it's time to move on to the surf report. I checked, and they claimin' 3 foot waves around New York way today. Time to take the subway out to Coney I?
Plus, six footers on Tuesday morning there. I know that's rare in NY, right? Whoa.
Brazil is the favored team for the whole thing, correct?
As for the NY waves...I guess I'm gonna have to go out there, huh? I guess a few wipe-outs will cool me off. If I ever make it out there for a visit, will I be able to just watch you guys surf?
Open a hydrant for me, would ya peeds?
Just spoke to the brother, and I'm not even annoyed or upset. Does this mean I'm shut down? or was it really ok this one time? Perhaps the waves will reveal the answer.
Bye for now.
yes, when i left to go upstate yesterday the lady of gaylord manor was yelling and cheering and talking to her family while watching brazil kick ass. exciting stuff, man. geez capt'n, it was nice to be in the same car when you and gree c were chatting, wish i could come to turkey, but gaylord have mercy on my bank account.
pd, what is a lady onion? i know baby onions, but not this lady onion you speak of.
its very sad, mister and the lady have disappeared to the airport this am. sniff.they're off to a non-rehab rehabilitation spa. can't wait to get there and wish you all could come too.
Gaylord, don't tell me they do the wheatgrass enemas at this non-rehab rehab, I can't handle that right now.
Hope it ain't too painful today Capt'n.
(If you don't hear from me in a couple of days...you'll know what happened.)
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25 Comments:
Last night, I showed my "kooky spaz" types moves again. I danced to the music of "Turnips on the Hudson." Anyhoo, at one point I hopped on the steps near the stage and did my surf moves in your honor. We all took a moment to think of the Team.
By 7:39 PM
, at
Oh peeds,
it's funny you should mention that because I took a moment on that last wave to remember the Norf*ckineasters.. And you, in particular, come to mind any time I do something kooky and spastic. But only in the best of ways, mind you.
By The Capt'n, at 9:55 AM
Girl, I just woke up and am still blurry and kind of shakey-like. Had whiskey and beer, and I never have whiskey, so I'm like whoa. There is a new tattoo on me too, but it's not a regretted error.
By The Capt'n, at 10:01 AM
Capt'n! I went all the way to the East Village to watch my friend perform (she's a Brazilian singer) at a bar that is also showinf the World cup game. I got there a lil' late and they wouldn't let me in 'cause it was filled to capacity. Now I am bummed and sweating from the 90 degree temperatures.
I am such a whisky wimp, myself.
By 10:43 AM
, at"Showinf" is Portuguese for "showing."
By 10:45 AM
, atPS: Do you take milk and sugar in your coffee?
By 10:47 AM
, at
Yes I do, sir!
I am so sorry, btw, about your recent disappointment. They shoulda let you in, that's fuckin bullshit, man. And what's with the 90 degrees in June? Somethin aint right here.
By The Capt'n, at 11:11 AM
Did you watch Italy vs. USA yesterday? Bad ref, but still, GO ITALY!
By The Capt'n, at 11:12 AM
I wonder if Gaylord and Mrs. Gaylord are watching today...? Mrs. Gaylord happens to be Brazilian...not to assume.....
By The Capt'n, at 11:13 AM
ITALIA! Va bene! Brazil won 2-zip. I just got word from my friend that it was a madhouse there...so it's just as well.
By 11:17 AM
, at
Excellent.
Now I feel it's time to move on to the surf report. I checked, and they claimin' 3 foot waves around New York way today. Time to take the subway out to Coney I?
Plus, six footers on Tuesday morning there. I know that's rare in NY, right? Whoa.
Brazil is the favored team for the whole thing, correct?
By The Capt'n, at 11:24 AM
Well, they say the Brazilian team is out of shape. That theory is lost on me. They look juuuuuuust fine to me.
As for the NY waves...I guess I'm gonna have to go out there, huh? I guess a few wipe-outs will cool me off. If I ever make it out there for a visit, will I be able to just watch you guys surf?
By 11:29 AM
, atI am going out in the heat to get something other than lady onions to put in my fridge.
By 11:34 AM
, at
Yeah, I'm guessing lady onions, although cute, are just not enuf.
Open a hydrant for me, would ya peeds?
Just spoke to the brother, and I'm not even annoyed or upset. Does this mean I'm shut down? or was it really ok this one time? Perhaps the waves will reveal the answer.
Bye for now.
By The Capt'n, at 12:48 PM
Hello!
yes, when i left to go upstate yesterday the lady of gaylord manor was yelling and cheering and talking to her family while watching brazil kick ass. exciting stuff, man. geez capt'n, it was nice to be in the same car when you and gree c were chatting, wish i could come to turkey, but gaylord have mercy on my bank account.
pd, what is a lady onion? i know baby onions, but not this lady onion you speak of.
its very sad, mister and the lady have disappeared to the airport this am. sniff.they're off to a non-rehab rehabilitation spa. can't wait to get there and wish you all could come too.
I'd like to go a non-rehab rehab spa. Does it include unlimited Jack D.?
By 6:41 AM
, at
OOH it hurts to get up early, but this is what The Capt'n must do from time to time in order to earn the money units.
Gaylord, don't tell me they do the wheatgrass enemas at this non-rehab rehab, I can't handle that right now.
By The Capt'n, at 7:36 AM
Cap-ee-ton, I hear you. I usually wake up on the early side, but when I know where I'm goin' and I'm a goin' to work--I'd rather sleep all day.
Hope it ain't too painful today Capt'n.
By 10:09 AM
, atHelllllooooooo Dagger, new tattoo? start talking.
A cluster of stars. What?
By The Capt'n, at 9:32 PM
Capt'n, I'm free today. I am jumping up and down for joy. I am thinkin of taking my board out to the Rockaways.
By 8:04 AM
, atYay!! pd, do it! The surf report said 3-5 feet out your way. That doesn't happen every day there, you know. Seriously, the Norf*ckeneasters should pack up the car and go. Where's Gree C? I'm all excited for you, can you tell?
By The Capt'n, at 9:13 AM
Tell Gree C tha van is leaving soon. I got an extra board if she wants to join us. 5 foot waves--I can take 'em.
(If you don't hear from me in a couple of days...you'll know what happened.)
On another note...my apartment smells like Old Spice. I think the smell is wafting up from the woman who lives below me.
P U
By The Capt'n, at 11:02 AM
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